Lace knitting



Shetland lace

Cape




Lace Edgings and Doileys

Knitted edging with flower motif



Orenburg shawls





map

Native Alaskan lace
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Faroe Isles










Faroe Island shawls

Faroese Flower Shawl, designed with the fitted shoulders and traditional drape of Faroese shawls, incorporating lace flower patterning and a special petal edging.










Materials:

Experiment with different types and sizes of yarn. 

Needles - pointy ones work best
Also try several different needle sizes.  You want to pay particular attention to the size of the yarn-over holes and to the flexibility of the finished fabric.   

Make a gauge swatch.  This lets you practice the pattern first (and you may discover that knitting 7 stitches together is not something that you would like to do), it gives you a chance to adjust the needle size without having to start over, and it gives you  a chance to block your knitting, wash it, throw it in the dryer and otherwise abuse it in ways you would not want to do to a beautiful shawl.

Also, keep your swatch.  Then when you need to make a repair to the finished object twenty years from now, you will be able to find the matching yarn.

If you are making a garment where knowing the finished size of your knitting  is essential, take the time to block the gauge swatch.  Waiting a day to start knitting is much better than knitting an entire sweater and then having to give it away to someone who is significantly bigger or smaller than the person you knit it for.  If you just can't bring yourself to knitting a gauge swatch, think of it as a size issue.  You can make a swatch that is roughly 4 inches square or you can make a gauge swatch that is roughly the size of a sweater.  Which one would you rather rip out or discard?  If that doesn't work and you're knitting a sweater, knit a sleeve first.  And be sure to buy extra yarn.


Techniques:

Casting on:

If you are knitting a shawl or a scarf that is mainly lace, you will want to have a very loose cast-on because the edge needs to be able to stretch when you block.  The two main ways I do this is to use either a   knitted cast-on or a cable cast-on.   Another cast-on technique you may need to know is a provisional cast-on.

Knitting the lace:

Lace knitting contains a lot of yarn-overs (yo) and decreases.

If you are knitting flat (not in the round) and you always slip the first stitch of each row, you will get a very nice looking edge.  On the other hand, slipping the first row will make the edges less stretchy.  My advice (as always) is to knit a fairly big sample of lace where you slip the first stitch of the right side rows but just knit (or purl) the first stitch of the wrong side row.  After you block your sample, you then can see how much each side stretches and use that information to decide.


Correcting mistakes:

Mistakes happen.  Some are easy to correct if you catch them early.  (If you discover you forgot a yarn over on the previous row, just pick up a bar between the two stitches where the yarn over was supposed to be.  If you discover you have one extra yarn over in the previous row, just drop it.)  Others are much harder to correct and involve some form of ripping out.  You can unknit (often called tinking) if you are a cautious person.  Or you can slide all of the stitches off the needle and rip out several rows.  Ripping out has the advantage that you can take this momoent to get a more accurate impression of how big your knitting is at this point.  It also has the disadvantage that you may find yourself ripping out far more than you intended (like the entire thing).  This is why you need

Lifelines:

Take a piece of slippery yarn that is a different color than the one you're knitting with and thread it through the stitches on your needle.  Then go ahead and knit as if it isn't there.  Should you need to rip out several rows, you will find it much easier to rip out down to this yarn and then pick up the stitches.  Needless to say, you probably want to do this about every ten rows (or at least once in each pattern repeat).

Binding off:

Just as you need a stretchy edge at the beginning of a project, you will also need one at the end of the object.  Many people just use larger needles to bind off. 

Blocking:


Blocking
lace turns it from a rather ugly, bumpy, funny looking thing into a thing of beauty.    If you block your gauge swatch before you start knitting your project, you can look at the swatch to remind yourself that your finished object will not be covered with blobs.





Blocking your gauge swatch first can save you lots of heartache.