This lace handkerchief
was worked by Ojibwe women of Onigum on the Leech Lake Reservation
and was carried by Edith Kuhlander of Hackensack, Minnesota at her
wedding in 1926. Because hand made lace is extremely time-consuming
to produce, lace was a luxury commodity. Nonetheless, the demand
for lace burgeoned in the 19th century and stimulated a cottage industry
of lace making throughout Europe and North America. In Minnesota,
lace-making spread to Ojibwe women through the philanthropic endeavors
begun by Sybil Carter, an Episcopalian missionary.
Sybil Carter, who had learned the skill of lace making in Japan,
formed the Sybil Carter Indian Lace Association in order to provide
income to Native American families. She established schools on fifteen
reservations throughout the United States where women were provided
with materials and instruction. At the same time, Carter and her
agents sold the lace work to the garment industry in New York City
and to well-to-do individuals across the country. The first wealthy
New Yorkers to sponsor a charitable sale in their personal homes
were the Vanderbilts who admitted the public to their New York mansion
for a $2.00 admission fee. The items offered at that sale were laces
made under the auspices of the Sybil Carter Indian Lace Association.
Profits of the association were used to hire more teachers and to
provide an uninterrupted supply of materials.
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